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Thanks to Robin Greendoner and Dolly Spiegl of Woodstock, N.Y who offered these great ideas for preventing your loom from walking out the door and for Robin's additional tip on care labels for your finished items.
I used to keep a piece of rubber back carpeting under my looms to prevent marking the floors and to slide them easier, now I use pieces of old mouse pads, rubber side up or two pieces glued together. with the material covering side out.
Another great tip for the shows is to make care labels, either on your own computer or send for an inexpensive roll, even handwritten ones can save you a lot of grief. I love the public, but they do the dumbest things. One lady who returned a rug with bad warp, had let her rug be eaten by a vacuum cleaner, quite obvious, and of course had no idea how it was damaged. Chlorine bleach spots are another one of my pet peeves. My labels say machine wash gentle, shake to remove loose soil, line dry, avoid bleach additives, no vaccuuming. Robin Greendoner
I have found that I can keep my floor loom from "walking" when I beat the web by using those rubber wedge doorstops under the frame of my loom. I use 2 really heavy-duty doorstops under the 2 outside frame posts closest to the weaver's bench under the breast beam, and I use 2 smaller more lightweight doorstops for the 2 outermost sections of the frame toward the back of the loom. This placement of doorstops raises the whole loom at a slight tilt for at most a couple of inches depending on how far the doorstops are pushed under the frame, but I have found that neither the loom nor my weaving has suffered. Dolly Spiegl of Woodstock, N.Y.
Thanks to Dolly Spiegl of Woodstock, N.Y who offered this great idea for preventing your loom from walking out the door.
I have found that I can keep my floor loom from "walking" when I beat the web by using those rubber wedge doorstops under the frame of my loom. I use 2 really heavy-duty doorstops under the 2 outside frame posts closest to the weaver's bench under the breast beam, and I use 2 smaller more lightweight doorstops for the 2 outermost sections of the frame toward the back of the loom. This placement of doorstops raises the whole loom at a slight tilt for at most a couple of inches depending on how far the doorstops are pushed under the frame, but I have found that neither the loom nor my weaving has suffered. Dolly Spiegl of Woodstock, N.Y.
These are wooden toy wheels which I purchased for another project. I placed these between my Leclerc sectional warp beam and my plain beam, using screws to secure them to the plain beam. The circumference went from 19" to 26.5" with room left over. ispin2weave
While going through my personal weaving library, I found that the spine on one of my older books was wearing away to nothing. After thinking about it for a few minutes, I went through my handwoven bookmarks and found a couple that were just slightly longer than the spine. I cut away what was left of the spine, brushed glue along the entire length, glued my bookmark to it and held it in place with elastics until it dried. ispin2weave
I have received permission to post below responses which I received to my "Customer Question" which I have also included. Thanks to all of you for your suggestions which solved my problem. ispin2weave. Thank you!
QUESTION
For those of you sell your items at shows, what do you do about customers (women) who place your handwoven 100% cotton towels against their face to test the softness (picking up oil and makeup), and customers who want to try on hats and socks? This happened last year at two different shows, fortunately, the woman who placed the towels against her face purchased them, another woman attempted to try on my handspun socks but DID NOT ask first (an outdoor show that had as many dirt covered areas as areas with grass where she had been walking around wearing flip flops with no socks). I told her that she was not allowed to try on socks (she bought them anyway) and people who obviously haven't washed their hair, but want to try on hats. I plan to add more shows this year and would like any suggestions on how I should handle this. Thank you. ispin2weave2knit@550access.com
RESPONSES
Cj. Aberte
I have seen no particular advantage to having things like this loose. If you wish, keep one outside of a sealed package and put the rest away (either in individual packages or under a display cover.
Take advantage of the law... it's illegal to try on such items of apparell (shoes, socks, underware, swinsuits, etc...) *without* proper protection. If the person comes with another light weight sock to put on under it, allow it, otherwise you follow the health regs.... Possibly put these under cover too, or in bags with a 'sample' for feeling (but too small for trying on?) out for inspection. Put on the package the size/s of the foot it will fit and keep either a tape for measuring feet or a conversion for shoe sizes in a chart.....
>...and people who obviously haven't washed their hair, but want
> to try on hats.
This one's a toughie. It's hard, but a hat is something that you may have to get used to people trying on with less than wonderful hair (about like you'd expect in a retail store). It's something you can't do much about unless you're willing to put up with people angry with you. This one you'll have to decide on your own, admittedly it isn't nice to have the problem, but it's something I don't know how you'd avoid. Unfortunately, it's not simply a matter of size but how the thing looks on...... while you can hold up a sock to a foot or leg and see how it will look, it's not the same thing with a hat...
Enjay
I was going to suggest that you use yarn to attach the hat brims together, so they customer can't fit their head inside, but if you use hang tags, you could probably attach a price tag that way and still block head entry lol I used ot manage a small retail store that sold hand crafted ecuadorean items such as hats and sweaters and the like. We used to have a really nice hand lettered sign that said please do not try garments such as hats, socks, etc of for size. Our other store had a sign with a not too clean looking person on it would you want to buy what they have tried on? I think our sign was more effective, but theirs garnered more laughs. Hopefully you will find something that works great for you, and doesn't raise the costs of selling your items too much. Good Luck! Enjay
Esther Sharrigan
I don't have sox but I do have chenille scarves, knitted hats etc. Everyone touches them, people put the scarves next to their cheeks, wrap around their neck, and every teenage girl and younger have to try on hats, many hats, almost all of my hats. Not much you can do about it cause if you don't let them try it on how do they know what they look like in them. Imagine guys and gals with the dregs, or whatever you call the knotted, unkempt, felted hair many college students have today trying them on???? You just hope your product is not contaminated. Regards, Esther in Wiscasset
Isis Perez
I don't sell my items, but a friend does.
She did sample for people to try and then she put a clear plastic on the one that were not for trying out so people can still see the colors and pattern. So far no one has compliant. Also she added a sign in front of the samples and said these are for trying out. or Samples can be touch. Just to give you an idea. Good luck. Isis :-)
Laura Fry
The sock issue can be addressed by stating that due to hygiene, socks cannot be tried on, much as swimsuits. But if you are selling clothing, people *have* to be able to try them on so a "try-on" pair or two might be a good idea. Stores deal with this issue all the time - it's called shop wear. :} Expenses due to shop wear have to be covered in your overhead mark up - another reason why I don't like the 3 times your material costs as a pricing formula. One of the benefits of selling textiles is that we can clean them again, and get them looking new although it costs us in terms of labour or dry cleaning bills. While *we* may think our textiles are precious, to the public they are "just" hats, socks, scarves, etc. They want, need, *have* to be able to try them on to see if they fit. Unless your garmets are all the same size, you have to let the prospective customer try on the one she wants, not confine her to the one try-on. Unless you don't care if you don't sell much. :) I stopped doing anything but fall/winter shows a long time ago. Generaly, textiles don't sell well at craft fairs in the spring/summer. You have to choose your market. I don't do farmer's markets, flea table type markets, or any other lower end price point show. It isn't worth it in terms of shop wear, and the wear and tear on my supply of "nice". :) Cheers, Laura Fry
Lisa Souza
I have had sweaters made useless for a show by women wearing a lot of makeup which will get left on the neck at try on time. It makes me furious but these sweaters are also NOT my handspun and so it becomes the occasional cost of doing business. Yuck. Hats have to be tried on...it is just that way. You will have to get over that one and let it happen...if they are sweaty people, offer a towelette for their sweaty brow. Now, Socks...I do NOT sell handmade socks because if I did, they would cost over $100. People do not have the opportunity to try on socks at the STORE...you know those plastic thingies keeping it from happening? Why not secure the pair together in a way (sew a big colorful piece of yarn through the toes and make a big knot that is easy to cut after purchase and then secure the insides of the ribs together the same way, like what we are all used to in commercial foofoo socks. Just make it obvious that these are not a try on item! (no trying on underpants...) When you do a show, just think about what happened this year that you would like to curtail, then learn from whatever yucky thing that a fairgoer did and think of how to avoid that possibly happening again. Package up your handspun cashmere so that every sticky fingered kid can't get hold of it, etc. Some things are unavoidable and only human nature but other things you either write off or head off at the pass. After 20 years of doing fine craft shows, this is my best and most heartfelt advice.
Llyn Payne
Sounds like a good use for old nylons & pantyhose. For trying on socks, use the foot part of old panty hose - just toss 'em when the customer is finished. Or you can buy a couple packs of those knee-highs. For trying on hats, take the top part of an old nylon and cut it off at a good length to make a bank robber stocking mask....... this gives enough length to knot it together at the cut edge, forming a watch cap which can then be used to cover up a person's hair. Or you can get those little caps they sell for wearing under wigs. For testing softness on towels, why not make an extra, smaller "sample" for this purpose? Display it prominently with at big "touch me" sign and package the actual towels in plastic bags. Hope this helps. Llyn
Nancy T. Slutsky
Personally, I think a 'dont touch' warning would detract from sales. If I got that impression from a vendor, I would probably just walk on by. Not for sale stuff IMO can be posted 'dont touch' without offense. I wouldnt think of trying on socks....which could have cute paper bands around them like in stores. I havent tried on stuff at street art fairs (which tend to be very hot in the summer) because I dont usually buy clothes there. But if I were in the market for hats, jackets etc, I would indeed expect to try them on. I might put a towel against my cheek or a scarf against my neck to see if it were face worthy. I guess a 'tester' might be a good idea if this bothers you. I can see that the vender might feel it appropriate to wash or clean the mechandise after a lot of handling. That is why year old merchandise is often marked down in stores. Sorry to offer a contrary view here. Nancy (No need to apologize Nancy, it is very much appreciated. ispin2weave)
Patricia Lawrence
I don't have an answer for the socks or hats.... but for towels... how about attaching a testing swatch to each towel... something big enough to test for softness, but still small enough to not really add a lot of cost. Just a thought. Or maybe small "testing" swatch's attached to a ring for each different towel that you are selling...this is if they are different weave's, sett's, size cotton's. Pat
Jonathan & Sheila Bosworth
as a consumer myself... I have particular likes and dislikes in colors and styles. I don't think I have *ever* bought a hat without trying it on first. Some things that look great on the rack don't look so great on me, and others that may not be my style (but definitely are my colors!) on first look, look great when I try them on. If you are not willing to let people try on hats, I think you will lose some sales. At the VT Sheep & Wool Festival, the booth next to our Journey Wheel booth was selling hats, mittens, scarves and fiber. Their display was very inviting, and they had two or three hand mirrors around for folks to see what they look like in the hats on display. They sold plenty! Not only because they had mirrors or let people try things on, but because their goods were beautiful, well made and nicely displayed -- as I'm sure yours are. I think socks are another story, though! If the customer thinks your towels will be used on their faces, they will want to get a sense of the "feel" -- some can do this hands alone, but others will want to nuzzle them to get a feel for them. You might want to ask Suzanne Correira of Fireant Ranch what her thoughts are on the hat trying on issue... she's one of our dealers, and has just finished a big holiday show where she was selling her own hats. I'm not sure if this helped... good luck. Jonathan & Sheila Bosworth
Sheri Figueroa
How about having a sample of a pre-washed towel for customers to touch/feel. I did this with my fulled/knitted wool wash cloths because people wanted to see how they looked after many washings. Worked well and I sold tons more just because there was a "working" sample available.
Norma
Hi, in reply to your questions here's my solution and/or opinion... I'm not sure how to prevent them from handling the COTTON TOWELS other than package them in cellophane bags and seal them. SOCKS are an easy solution......you know the little plastic/nylon deals used to attach garment tags and price tags to clothing? They are shaped like a capital T with a bracket at the bottom also. They come in different lengths. They also use them to keep slippers attached together and SOCKS! The tool used to attach them is like a hand held stapler. I have seen them advertised for sale in craft magazines before. Just hook the socks together at the top opening and no way can they put them on! HATS are a different story. They have to be tried on. I wouldn't buy a hat without trying it on first even if I was buying it for someone else. Just request they have clean "hands" and keep a container of baby wipes handy (great for wiping your hands)! And offer them one first. If it is a craft show, you can bet they have been touching and eating lots of things. You can also cut pieces of plastic from the garment bags you get at the cleaners and then just lay the plastic on top of their heads before putting the hat on. The plastic is so thin it wouldn't affect the head or hat size. Then just throw the plastic piece away. I get them at the cleaners all the time as I pack my wreaths in them as I make them to keep the dust off. If you need quite a few, I am sure they would sell some to you pretty cheap. Good luck and Happy New Year! Norma, So. Calif.
Tricia Rasku
Would you buy socks or hats without knowing if they will fit? If you make the same sizes, you might have a pair of trying on socks for people to check the size or a thin pair of inner socks for them. The hat problem is a bit different as I would never buy a hat not knowing what it looks like. Two things I can think of, neither being a great solution are: plastic liner inside for trying or using a disinfectant spray. I like neither of these and I have sold hats and people do try them on and I just don't worry about it. Socks on a dirty area, if I have many items, then I would have a clean place for them to try them on. The towels, after all, are washable and again, I think that the customer should be able to test for softness. You could suggest the neck or inner elbow or wrist, and realize that you could wash the towel again, or have a tester towel. I suggest that if you are selling, realize that there will be some such losses, but more sales if you are accommodating. I don't have a lot of sales, as I live in a small area, but I do have a good reputation and that is important to me. Tricia
Keeping Your Beater Upright: I've been using this method for a number of years, but decided to post it after seeing it come up on the weaving list. One method of keeping your beater upright, other than drilling and adding a pin, is to use C-clamps in front of the beater swords. They allow you to keep the beater in place while sleying, without it falling back towards the breast beam. ispin2weave
Thanks to Martin Weatherhead of Snail Trail Handweavers for his great explanation of a Universal Tie-Up.
A Universal Tie Up on a counter march loom is one where you can get all possible lifts with four shafts without retying any pedals. It does mean using two feet at once but it is very easy to use. However it also means that you must have 8 pedals.
Pedals 1 – 4 odd shafts. Pedals 5 – 8 even shafts
The tie up goes as follows:
1) Rising 1 -- rising 3
2) Sinking 1 -- sinking 3
3) Sinking 1 -- rising 3
4) Rising 1 -- sinking 3
5) Rising 2 -- sinking 4
6) Sinking 2 -- rising 4
7) Sinking 2 -- sinking 4
8) Rising 2 -- rising 4

Plain weave is pedals 1 & 7 then 2 & 8. A simple step of one pedal sideways with both feet. I use a heel and toe movement, leaving the heel on the pedal while swinging the toe across to the new pedal.
Twill is like cycling, so easy once learned.
1&2 both feet in the middle (4&5),
2&3 step left (3&5),
3&4 step right (3&6),
4&1 step in with the left (4&6),
step in with the right (4&5) and you are back to the start. The two feet just alternate stepping left, right, left, right.
You can work out the 3/1 and 1/3 lifts for yourself. They combine plain weave and twill pedals.
Just read further on in the digest. There is no way to make a universal tie up with 8 shafts, just too many possible combinations. However the 4 shaft version may be of use to someone.
Sectional Warping Using Your Warping Reel: I thought of this after reading the great comments about a particular warping reel. I thought there had to be a way to use a warping wheel for sectional warping without having to rely on a spool rack and winding so many bobbins, and still have the ability to vary warp colors. Below is what I have come up with while warping my loom for scarves. ispin2weave
Using the regular method of warp winding, I needed 4 yards and 168 ends (14" x 12 EPI) of warp for two 6' long 14" wide scarves (allowing for waste and fringed ends). Since my loom has a sectional warp beam and after thinking about it, I decided that I needed 24 ends (2") and a total of 28 yards (4 yards for each 2" section x 7 sections on my sectional warp beam = 28 yards, 14" wide). I put the 24" ends into my tension box (keep in mind that I still used the weaver's cross and chained the 28 yards) and wound onto my beam. It worked! The original documentation for my horizontal warping wheel stated up to 20 yards (10 rounds) can be wound, but since I only needed 24 ends, I was able to warp 14 rounds for a total of 28 yards. Using this method, I don't need to use my spool rack and wind all of those spools and I can easily vary the colors.
In a nutshell, multiply the number of yards needed by the number of sections needed on your sectional warp beam. 4 yards x seven 2" sections = 28 yards. ispin2weave

To attach the wallpaper brush (actually, a vinyl smoothing brush) to your drumcarder, drill a hole in each end of the brush while holding it against the back of the wooden frame, and then put in a couple of screws, one on each end. Keep in mind that my drum carder has a wood frame, but I'm sure the necessary holes can be drilled in a metal frame with the right drill bit. To use the brush without attaching it to the drum carder, drumcard a handful of fiber (I place a handful large enough to fill the tray) and card that first, then I turn the handle of the drumcarder (about 7-10 times, more for even more packing in of fiber) holding the brush against the drum which causes three things to happen: 1) you get smoother batts; 2) you get larger batts; and 3) with the brush, I only need to card once whereas without it, I previously had to card 2-3 times for a smooth batt. This may vary somewhat depending on your model of drum carder. The brush can be purchased at any wallpaper store (I paid $3).
I thought of this idea while adding paper to my fax machine.

This is a roll of thermal fax paper which I realized would work as a warp separator when winding on long narrow warps of no more than 8.5" wide. One roll takes up very little space and should be more than you'll ever need.
Thanks to Phreadde Davis who offered this great idea for a warp separator.

Freezer paper, slightly thicker and lightly waxed on one side, is also an excellent warp separator. It comes in several widths, on a roll and with its own cutter - how convenient. I pass it under the bottom bar on my Leclerc Dorothy and it automatically feeds into the warp beam along with my warp. I reuse mine many times. In fact, my current set of scarves for presents has used the same piece again and again. When putting on a long warp, I put marks on the paper to indicate length woven. This helps for both scarves and towels.
Thanks to Robin Murphy who came up with this great idea for a yardage counter.

If you're looking for an inexpensive yardage counter, try a line counter which you can find at a fishing supplier. The one I have counts in feet up to 99 (or 33 yards) and seems to keep an accurate count. The one I purchased was $14.99, but price may vary depending on where you purchase yours.
Niddy Noddy: Two 5' lengths of 1/2" PVC pipe; PVC 1/2" Tees (20-pack); hacksaw; all purpose cement. Total investment-$14. The original directions did not call for cement glue, but I noticed that without the glue, the end pieces had a tendency to slip out. The photo shows the niddy noddy lying flat, but if you decide to use the glue, BEFORE ADDING GLUE, turn one end of the niddy noddy so that you will be able to wind your yarn. Instructions allow for 4 niddy noddies. From one length of PVC pipe, cut four 11" pieces, add cement glue to inside of PVC Tee (two for each niddy noddy) and place a Tee on each end. While glue is setting (the glue I used had a set time of 15 minutes before handling), cut twenty 4" pieces from 2nd length of PVC pipe. Brush glue inside ends of PVC Tees and firmly push a 4" length of PVC inside each tee. Allow 24-48 hours of setting before use.
I have received permission from various listers to print their comments on sheep shearing. Those comments can be found below. If you have an idea useful for spinning, weaving, and handknitting, please email ispin2weave. Thank you!
Hi, I'm Chris Greene in IL. We raise Shetland and Finn/Rambouillet Sheep, Angora goats and Alpine goats. Your first contact about shearing because of the hot weather is correct. The wool on our F/R begins to break off as the sheep get hotter, that does not mean it will just fall off making shearing obsolete. This "break" can happen as early as March, so you can imagine how they would feel in July or August. They would also be more susceptible to lice, ticks, fleas which can carry diseases as well as the possibility of the wool felting due to sweat, or even rotting due to sweat. Sheep can also die from the heat, just as humans can. There are breeds of "hair" sheep that shed their coats, and some sheep that will still shed their wool if not sheared, but that is usually over a period of 2 - 3 summers.
The sheep are not very happy about shearing day, but I have a very competent shearer who rarely nicks them and handles them easily and quickly. They are not happy about my giving them worming shots to keep them from getting invested with worms, including heart worms (dogs get these) or lung worms which kill animals very slowly and is much worse than a shot 3 -4 times a year. We also give shots for a disease called clostridium - which is like a deadly colic from eating too much grain. There are other shots that are given to prevent lock jaw, and a shot to build up the immune system. I try to give most of the shots at one time, usually on shearing day. To get all the "nasty" things done at one time so I don't have to "disturb them" too many times during the year. They also need to have their hooves trimmed, to prevent infection that might occur in the feet, to check for hoof rot, to make sure they are walking straight.
Let your friend know that those that raise sheep are not trying to hurt them but to make sure they are healthy, well fed and are feeling their best in all weather. My sheep follow me, come when I call them and the rams wag their tails when I scratch their ears, so they must not mind what I do to keep them healthy.
Thanks, Chris
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This is the same kind if thinking as confining sheep is cruel. Shearing sheep is about as cruel as cutting your hair. How can it be cruel?? Do these same people shave their dog in the summer? What's the difference? These animals were developed to grow this wool. In the wild, modern sheep would not survive. The primitive breeds of sheep still shed their wool much like a dog sheds its hair. Ask any Shetland sheep raiser.
Wool grows. With or without shearing, the wool will continue to grow. Some breeds grow wool at an incredible rate. My karakuls grow about an inch a month. If I did not shear the karakuls (and I shear them twice a year), the wool would matt, pulling the skin tighter and tighter. Eventually the skin under the matted wool would turn gangrenous because the blood supply would be cut off. Thus the sheep would die. How is that for cruel?
Once I was asked to come shear a sheep that belonged to a preschool. This was a Suffolk ewe who hadn't been shorn in two years. The fleece was matted, full of debris, extremely heavy and had started to do damage to the skin underneath. You could see small patches of white skin where the circulation was already being restricted. Once that ewe was shorn of her wool, you could almost hear her sigh of relief.
Sorry, you just hit a hot button.
Robin Snyder, spinner, weaver and shepherd
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It's true sheep if not shorn can get infections. Though it's not as common as one might think. But it cruel to NOT shear sheep. How would you like to wear a heavy fur coat in 100 degree weather. Plus shearing them stimulates growth, lanolin production which is their protection from infections of the skin. This past season in our area there was a family that was turned in to the animal protection agency SPCA here. The sheep had not been shorn in years. They either had a choice of shearing them, let the animal shelter take them, have the animal shelter shear them at there cost etc. They got shorn. We shear twice yearly, spring and fall. Some think it's mean to shear in the fall because winter is coming. But there are some really good reasons for this. First we shear early enough in the fall for them to have sufficient wool grown by the real cold weather. As a spinner weaver you know about wool qualities so I needn't tell you. But in the rain long wool is not comfortable for the sheep, not so much because of the water because the lanolin keep them protected. But the weight, also if you barn your sheep like many of us do long wool only brings that much more water into the barn. Also if you have a breeding flock it is good to have the ewes shorn in the fall so when the lambs are born there is not 6 or more inches of dirty wool to contend with. Also if the mom has shorter wool she will be more apt to take her lambs to shelter in the cold weather. Think about it the lambs have very short wool at birth, if mom has long wool she is not going to feel the cold as much as the lambs, thus many lambs freeze to death. Of course if you have a spinning flock you only want to shear once a year, but for lambing you should crotch them.
Susan - Highland Hills Hampshires
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Ah... the PITA crowd. Idiots. Why on earth is shearing a sheep any more "cruel" than you getting your hair cut?
We shear sheep because we have selectively bred them to not shed. (Primitive breeds of sheep, the non-domesticated Big Horn Sheep and such, shed their wool every spring.) This being the case, we need to remove the wool by shearing. If it's never removed, it just keeps growing and growing. Pretty soon, the poor sheep wouldn't be able to move!
Pegg (pmjfarm@shianet.org)
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Shearing allows the breeder to be in control. Not necessary to travel the hills and valleys gathering the wool/fiber that fell out naturally or was snagged in branches.
A job of following behind the caravans and picking up the tufts of fiber from the camels was very real. Shearing gives 'us' the control necessary for clean plentiful fleeces.
Paulette (aparker@shianet.org)
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Hiya,
The reason you have to shear the sheep is that their wool keeps growing and if you don't cut it off it will eventually kill them from the combination of weight and heat. Just imagine the weight of wet wool on a wet sheep that hasn't been shorn for three or four years. The wool grows down over their face and makes them "wool blind" and it makes it hard for them to eat. An unshorn sheep in the summer is a sorry creature. Ancient sheep had a wool and hair coat and the wool coat would be shed or "blown" in the spring, but that quality has been bred out of them for thousands of years. So far from being cruel, not shearing a sheep can get you reported and fined for cruelty.
Good question.
Abi (Abi66@aol.com)
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Domestic sheep are the result of many (10,000) years of domestication by man. Wild sheep and some primitive sheep shed hair in the summer. The undercoat (which is really the wool) is shed each year. thousands of years ago people discovered sheep that did not have the outer hairy coat and bred them. Voila! Sheep with wool. They also got rid of sheep with horns and sheep that shed...it was much easier to cut the wool off than it was to pick it up off the ground. Too much got lost that way. So we have created the wool sheep to our liking, not to nature's liking. Some sheep (more primitive breeds especially) will still shed if they are not sheared.
IF you do not shear the sheep, the wool does several things. Stress from anything from illness to heat will cause a break in the wool so it can fall out; if it does not fall out it will mat or cot at the break and form a heavy dense hot cover on the sheep (like a matted dog); in some climates that warm area next to the skin becomes a haven for all sorts of bugs and fungus etc. Heat is trapped and body heat continues to build up under the dense cover. Sheep do not like heat. They die more often from heat than cold if the animal is healthy. Last spring I had an older ewe who seemed to be bothered by the heat that was increasing by the day. She was panting heavily one day and I decided I just must cool her off so I brought her in and sheared her....(we have to shear sheep ourselves and are not fast enough to do them all early. It takes us months of weekends to finish.) I took her temperature and it was 107. As soon as she was sheared and rinsed with cool water, she went right back to normal. She was not sick. In some damp climates the wool will actually rot off the sheep. Sheep that are not sheared cannot be checked adequately for bumps and abscesses, or kept clean. This is a haven for fly strike if any injury occurs to the skin. You must take your own situation into account and shear accordingly. We cannot shear too late or the sheep sunburn.
Shearing is also the only way we know to get the wool off the sheep so we can use it. If we didn't shear, how could we use the wool? Both the sheep and we benefit from the relationship.
Joan Horak (Jacobflock@aol.com)
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There are many reasons to shear a sheep. If not shorn, their fibers (woo or fur) become matted and will, eventually, really irritate the skin. The fibers are continually growing, at different rates, depending on the breed. If your hair were never cut, for instance, it would just keep growing and growing also. The folks from a certain animal rights group have been trying to spread the word that it is "cruel"...actually, it is cruel not to shear. Different breeds get shorn at different interval depending on their individual growth rate. For instance, our Lincolns need to be shorn twice a year where we live....they grow up to 15 inches a year. Some breeds, such as the Corriedale need only be shorn once a year. Martha at KK And, let us not forget, if we don't shear, how can we spin it?
Martha Berger (kkaos@crosslink.net)
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One of the great things about our craft of spinning wool, mohair, angora [both the rabbit & the goat sort].......is no animal needs to die & they carry on replenishing themselves more or less by themselves. Except of course for the poor silk moth/cocoon :-(
Cathy aka Tuatara, Waitakere City (dseton@ihug.co.nz)
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You all forgot to mention screw worms. When you don't shear your sheep and they go out on lush, green pasture and then get nice wet manure smeared into the wool on their rear ends, lo, here come the nice, little screw worm flies who lay their eggs in it. When the eggs hatch out and the larvae get done eating manure and wool, they then start on the sheep. Presto, chango, dead sheep. :-)
Pat (CHIQUITA@VAX1.BEMIDJI.MSUS.EDU)


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